In 1998 a very forward book arrived: Hors d’Oeuvres from Gillian Duffy presented a balanced spectrum of hors d’oeuvres and a philosophy. Author Gillian Duffy grew up in rural England where, she notes, hors d’oeuvres might mean cheese and crackers. A foodie early in life, she toured the world until ending up in New York and becoming, among other things, the Food Editor for New York Magazine.
Gillian set trends and opened eyes as, in the past few decades, the American culinary world has been transformed. And then transformed again and again. Gillian has a passion for hors d’oeuvres and is a proponent of making them a prominent and thoughtful part of our dinner parties. Too often, those appetizer things are after thoughts. We focus on the main course and dessert and then we take out the cheese and crackers.
If anything, Gillian believes, more work can go into the hors d’oeuvres than those other elements of the meal. The preparation can begin days in advance and storage in the fridge or freezer is the way to spread the effort out. That effort should include care for the presentation of your efforts, placement on the final plate, adornment with flowers or herbs. The hors d’oeuvres are our entry to the entire meal. That entry needs to be grand. In beauty and in taste.
Gillian’s lovely book provides both that beauty and that taste. The book is divided into two sections: Winter and Summer. The winter recipes are “heavier” and more complex. Summer ideas are light and more easily prepared. In scanning this book, I must admit I’m more of a winter hors d’oeuvres man.
Some of the lovely winter ideas include:
Smoked Chicken and Jalapeno Jack Quesadillas with Chipotle Sauce
Thai Duck Rolls
Curried Mussels with Sweet Red Pepper [so beautiful that a picture closes this post]
Ginger Roulade, an example of little rolled sandwiches that be made in endless combinations
Terrine of Caviar and Smoked Salmon
Napoleon of Smoked Trout and Arugula Mousse
The ideas in Hors d’Oeuvres span the world with Asian, South American, and Middle Eastern nuggets sprinkled throughout the book. The “degree of difficulty” varies, too. There are many easy recipes here and then some, like that Napoleon of Smoked Trout and Arugula Mousse, which will demand some attention and time. Looking at the picture, though, it’s clear the investment will be worthwhile.
Our food world has surely evolved in the 17 years since Hors d’Oeuvres was published. We have had the tapas revolution, which is nothing more than dining for hours on hors d’oeuvres. The winter recipes are more complex and substantial. So substantial that you might consider, for example, just making a big platter of one of the quesadillas for the entire meal. Who doesn’t like salmon and dill or smoked chicken with jalapeno jack cheese?
Some food ideas truly are universal. This lovely book is filled with those universal truths. If you plan on entertaining this spring and summer, or if you just love the whole “tapas scene” then Hors d’Oeuvres has plenty of timeless ideas for you to try and enjoy.