Tomorrow is the publication date for Nonna’s House by Jody Scaravella. Jody’s restaurant on Staten Island, Enoteca Maria, has a lovely twist. The chefs are all Italian-American grandmothers, ten of them, who rotate nightly in the Enoteca, preparing whatever inspires them that day. This book is a collection of recipes from this most talented kitchen crew.
The book has stories about the women, recipes, and exceptional photos. I think the best photo in the book is the one you see above: Quail with Fried Pancetta and Olives. Here is the recipe. Yes, I know, you’ve never cooked quail. Maybe you’ve never ordered it. It’s time for a treat in your culinary life and a little education. This recipe, authentic to the very last olive, will open your eyes as you open your mouth.
Most of the quail in the US are farm-raised and harvested on the farm or released for hunting. In 2007, over 40 million quail were raised, so people really are eating them. This recipe calls for 1 per person. Quails are small, so if your table include serious carnivores, you might allocated 2 per person. With such a small entree, substantial side dishes are essential. I happen to have a lovely Bourbon Braised Carrot recipe. Look for that in tomorrow's post.
Quail with Fried Pancetta and Olives
Yield: serves 2
Ingredients:
- 2 bone-in quail (about 5 ½ ounces each), cleaned, preferably with feet attached
- ¼ teaspoon salt
- ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1 garlic clove, halved
- 1 (4-inch) fresh rosemary sprig, halved
- 8 small fresh sage leaves
- 4 tablespoons olive oil
- 4 paper-thin slices smoked pancetta [or regular pancetta or even just smoked bacon]
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 12 pitted green olives
Preparation:
Season the quail inside and out with salt and pepper. Stuff each quail with a piece of garlic, a piece of rosemary, and 2 sage leaves.
Warm the oil in a deep skillet set over medium heat. Add the pancetta. Fry until crisp, turning once, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board or plate.
Set the quail in the skillet. Brown well, turning once, about 8 minutes. Stir in the wine, olives, and remaining 4 sage leaves. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the quail are tender at the bone, about 20 minutes. Transfer the quail to a serving platter. Drizzle with the pan juices and garnish with the fried pancetta.
Source: Nonna’s House by Jody Scaravella [Atria Books, 2015]