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It’s pretty clear that America could use a few things. Let’s ignore politics and economics. That leaves food and we could use more chefs like Emeril Lagasse. Yes, he’s exuberant on TV but in person he’s much calmer and totally charming. He’s been a godsend to employees when Hurricane Katrina devastated New Orleans.

And the man just keeps producing good food and wonderful cookbooks. One of those books, from 2009, is Emeril at the Grill: A Cookbook for All Seasons. Ah, all seasons. All seasons?

Do you grill in the winter? I guess in New Orleans you can. In the Catskills, I could make room for Suzi outside if I shoveled off the snow and then got out her warmest coat. Then maybe …

No, not Suzi. Not me. Not winter. Not all seasons. But, that does leave us in Upstate New York with a good 6-7 months where cooking outdoors is a happy task. The only 5 months or so? Well, the recipes here can be transported to your kitchen grill and oven and cast iron pans. So, sure, this is a book for all seasons.

And for all tastes. This is definitely not a “burgers and chicken” book. Everything can be grilled as you’ll see in the book’s chapters:

  • On the Side: veggies galore [and not all grilled]
  • Sandwiches, Wrap, and Pizzas: like a grilled pizza with prosciutto, pesto and taleggio
  • Burgers and Kebabs: Greek kebabs and pork and chorizo burgers
  • From the Sea: salmon, of course, but also Arctic char and sea bass and clams and tuna]
  • Things with Wings: quail, chicken paillards and turkey roulade
  • Off the Land: Thai-style beef salad and Korean-style grilled short ribs

Emeril has grilling ideas from around the world, as that Thai salad and the Korean ribs indicate. What I find grand about this book is its practicality coupled with inspiration. This could be the only grilling book on your shelf and you’d be set for life —although we do all collect them, don’t we. Emeril has little touches that transform a simple recipe into something memorable. Those Pork and Chorizo Burgers come with a Green Chile Mayo, which is quite easily made. You have a start there with the chorizo and then Emeril frosts the burger with that heated mayo. What could be better.

His care for getting the flavor “just right” is obvious in, say, his Watermelon Margaritas. There’s a quarter cup of sugar [in the sugar syrup] and a quarter cup of Triple Sec but a quarter cup and 2 tablespoons of tequila. Emeril has toyed with the relative proportions to give you his interpretation of the perfect margarita. Oh, and you’ll need three cups of watermelon. I will, in fact, be trying this recipe out soon and I’ll let you know how extra good it is.

Emeril at the Grill is an extensive book, written by a trusted chef, and a volume you can enjoy with its wide spectrum of flavors. You just might find yourself brushing aside the late fall leaves, or snow, to enjoy his Turkey Roulade with Peach and Sage Gravy.