For some reason, fish do not get respect. Not in American kitchens. Name a fish restaurant. No, something beyond Red Lobster.

When we cook seafood, if we do at all, it is simple: a pan-fried trout, a broiled salmon, boiled shrimp. It is certainly is not that great ideas have been absent. In 2004, Laurent Tourondel —master chef with many restaurants and wonderful cookbooks like this one — published Go Fish: Fresh Ideas for American Seafood.

Laurent provides many ways to enjoy fish using his continental training and expertise. Chapters are here for appetizers through main dishes and sides. He does provide desserts here, too, but they are some of his trademark wonders and are all fish-free.

Here are the major chapters with sample recipes:

Appetizers: Stone Crab with Avocado and Grapefruit Juice, Curry-Scented Tuna with Sun-Dried Tomato, Crab Shepard’s Pie, Poached Skate with Spicy Lime-Yogurt Vinaigrette

Soups and Chowders: Cream of Cauliflower with Salt Cod, Chilled Green Pea Soup with Shrimp, Cream of Lettuce with Smoke Trout

Pasta and Risotto: Lemon-Crab Risotto with Grilled Asparagus, Ricotta Tortellini with Grilled Sardines, Parsley Risotto with Snails and Frothy Goat Cheese

Main Courses: Marinated Black Cod with Acacia Honey, Red Snapper with Tomato-Ginger Chutney, Mustard-Crusted Halibut, Walleye Pike with Bacon-Burgundy Sauce

It’s wonderfully evident how elevated these recipes are. How about that Pike with Bacon-Burgundy Sauce. Parsley Risotto with Frothy Goat Cheese? Can you see the froth? Can you taste it? The Crab with Avocado and Grapefruit Juice? Puckering yet?

Fish can be a wonderful and truly healthy food. Making a fish dish delectable, well, that has been a challenge. The recipes in Go Fish let you fashion extra special enjoyment. The recipes are designed for us: American seafood, American kitchens, and American curiosity. It’s a lovely book and just may have your visiting your fish counter very soon. Maybe tomorrow?