Rick Bayless is synonymous with Mexican cuisine, quite authentic Mexican cuisine. His five restaurants, a half dozen wonderful cookbooks, and his PBS television shows are all vehicles for both educating and feeding us superior Mexican food. Mexico One Plate at a Time, published fifteen years ago, was his third book.
One Plate at a Time appeared in conjunction with a 26-part PBS television series. Happily, that series is being rebroadcast on one of the 500 cable channels Suzi and I now have on our cable service. So we are able to both read and watch Rick walking through the steps of his wonderful recipes. We can watch on TV, not needing to take notes, and then dash to the book to read and consider about making that very same dish the very same day. Or the next day. For breakfast.
The book has a 10-page section devoted the epitome of Mexican breakfasts: chilaquiles or tortilla casserole. On TV, for his Green Chilaquiles, Rick uses two bottles of his Frontera Green Salsa — and while that Frontera use was a tad self-promoting, Suzi and I buy the Frontera products all the time because they are so, so good. In the cookbook, though, Rick is rigorously authentic using 2 pounds of tomatillos and chilies and onions to achieve the fiery green flavor from scratch.
Particularly when you watch Rick, you see his enormous practicality. He does use some prepared foods to enable a wonderful meal to be assembled in a show that, commercials aside, gives him only about 22 minutes to convey a message of quality.
In the book, Rick does have the time, and encourages you to take the time, to do start with the raw ingredients, avoid the rush, and gracefully craft distinguished food.
One Plate at a Time has four chapters, each divided into section like that one for chilaquiles. The section idea is different from an ordinary cookbook layout. You get a general description, with background, key points about the traditional form of the dish, advice for American cooks seeking to achieve authenticity, and finally multiple recipes. Mexican cuisine is, if anything, mix and match. Use this or that meat, these or those chilies. It’s exciting food because literally you can ensure it is never quite the same each time you “assemble” the ingredients.
Here’s a rundown of the four chapters with their key sections:
- Starters, Snacks, and Light Meals
Guacamole
Ceviche
Queso Fudido
Gorditas
Quesadillas
Tostada
Tamales
Tacos
Enchiladas
Chilaquiles
- Soups, Stews and Sides
Chicken Soups
Tortilla Soups
Seafood Stews
Pozole
Rice Dishes
Beans
- Entrees
Chiles Rellenos
Turkey and Chicken Dishes
Fish a la Veracruzana
Fish in Escabeche
Seafood in Mojo
Pork and Beef Dishes
Barbacoa [Slow-Cooked Meats]
- Desserts and Drinks
Flan
Rice Pudding
Cajeta
Mexican Chocolate
Mangos
Tequila, Margaritas, Beer and Wine
Rick’s books are on par with any author describing Mexican cuisine. They are actually better than par because he writes for you and me. He’s balancing authenticity with practicality. Rick understands the skill levels of the typical American cook and has a sense of what you can readily find in your supermarket — although in fifteen years our shopping options have surely surpassed even Rick’s wildest dreams when he penned this book. You can read the “authentic” recipes here and pretty easily find those ingredients to fashion a “made from scratch” delicacy.
One Plate at a Time is book that lives up to its title. You can work your way through this book, one plate at a time, and enjoy every morsel of the journey.