In Blue Chairs Cooks with Jam & Marmalade Rachel Saunders does not make jams: she uses them in dishes sweet and savory, dishes ranging around the world.
We “eat” first with our eyes and our senses of smell and taste. A North African tangine is a cultural milepost, a dish that has been crafted and extended for centuries. North African cuisine is rich in spices and fruits. Apricots, for example, abound. Rachel’s contribution is to substitute apricot jam [ideally her jam which you will find in her book, a book I suggest you add to your kitchen library!].
Rachel loves the swarm of flavors and textures thrust into this one dish. Crunch of almonds, brightness of herbs, acidity of lemons and apricot, and ultimately the deep earthy flavors of turnips and chicken.
This is a great, great party dish. First, it will “wow” your guests as it comes to the table. Second, it’s easy to prepare, especially if you prep the elements earlier in the afternoon and then enjoy some last minute “assembly” as your party starts. Party guests, foodie guests, will surely want to participate in the art of placing all the elements.
This is a solid recipe but also a template for you. Add, subtract, adjust at will. Turkey instead of chicken. Shrimp in addition. Some mint, some allspice. You can have a bombastic time in the kitchen and then let all the flavors cascade with every bite.
This dish is to be served warm, so it’s best for a late summer supper, after the sun has set and temperature left its peak. Check the weather report. Is it going to be a raining Sunday? Perfect tangine weather!
Chicken Tangine with Turnips and Apricots
Yield: serves 6
Ingredients:
- Large handful of sliced unblanched almonds
- 3 chicken thighs
- 3 chicken drumsticks
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Crushed dried thyme, preferably Moroccan, for rubbing
- 1 medium yellow onion
- 3 cloves garlic, thickly sliced
- 2½ tablespoons unsalted butter, preferably European-style
- 2 tablespoons neutral-flavored olive oil
- ¾ cup Apricot Jam (page 14)
- ½ teaspoon ground ginger
- Small pinch of saffron threads
- 2 (3-inch) cinnamon sticks
- 10 green cardamom pods, smashed
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 pound turnips, peeled and cut into ¾-inch wedges
- 2 large carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch rounds
- Juice of 1 lemon (not Meyer)
- 2 Kate’s Preserved Meyer Lemons, seeded and chopped (page 236)
- Handful of chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
- Handful of chopped fresh cilantro
Preparation:
First, lightly toast the almonds: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the almonds in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast them until pale golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer them to a plate to cool completely. Rub the chicken pieces all over with salt, pepper, and thyme.
Cut the onion into large chunks and place the onion with the garlic in a small food processor. Pulse briefly just until the onion is uniformly finely “chopped,” making sure to stop before it turns into a paste. Set aside.
Heat the butter and oil in a shallow heavy-bottomed 12-inch pan over medium-high heat. Add the chicken pieces and brown them on all sides. Transfer to a plate.
Lower the heat to medium. Add the onion mixture and sauté until very translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the jam, ginger, saffron, cinnamon, cardamom, and bay leaves and stir well. Nestle the chicken pieces into the onion mixture, add ¼ inch water, decrease the heat to medium-low, and cover the pan. Braise the chicken for 15 minutes. Scatter the turnips and carrots evenly over the chicken. Do not stir. Cover and braise until the vegetables and chicken are tender, about another 30 minutes.
Use tongs to transfer the chicken to a plate. Cover the chicken loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm. Add the lemon juice, preserved lemons, and half the parsley and cilantro to the sauce. Increase the heat to medium-high and simmer, stirring frequently, until the sauce has reduced to a jammy consistency. Return the chicken to the sauce to warm through, turning to coat the chicken with the sauce. Remove the pan from the heat and sprinkle the tagine with the remaining parsley and cilantro and the almonds. Generously grind black pepper over all. Serve at once.