Spring offers us the return of old friends. Artichokes, first small and then larger as the days grow longer and sunnier. Some foods have such distinctive tastes that they are immediately recognizable. Artichokes, surely. And capers, those little salty bombs whose flavor seams to linger forever in your mouth.
This recipe combines the two. It’s from A Girl and Her Greens by April Bloomfield, a chef and author of well-deserved respect. April notes that the white wine here cuts through the density of the artichoke and, along with those capers, lets you enjoy the unique, herbaceous flavor of the artichokes.
The recipe calls for turning your artichokes. That really means cutting off the bottom, removing the outer leaves and then trimming off the top. Here’s a good link to the art of prepping your chokes:
http://www.seriouseats.com/2015/03/how-to-prepare-cut-trim-clean-artichokes-hearts.html
Pot-Roasted Artichokes with White Wine and Capers
Yield: serves 4 to 6 as a side
Ingredients:
- ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 3 ½ pounds baby artichokes, turned
- 2 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 1 ½ teaspoons Maldon or another flaky sea salt
- 1 ½ cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
- 1 heaping tablespoon drained capers
- A five-finger pinch of mint leaves (preferably black mint), torn at the last minute
- Pinch of delicate flat-leaf parsley sprigs
Preparation:
Heat the oil in a heavy pot (wide enough to hold the artichokes with room to spare) over medium-high heat until it just begins to smoke. Stand the artichokes cut sides down in the oil, wait a minute, then reduce the heat to medium-low, sprinkle in the garlic and salt, and cook, without stirring, just until the garlic turns golden and smells toasty, about 3 minutes.
Slowly pour in the wine, cover the pot, and cook, without stirring, at a vigorous simmer until you can insert a sharp knife into the thick artichoke bottoms with barely any resistance, about 25 minutes. Five minutes or so before they’re fully tender, remove the lid and scatter on the capers.
Raise the heat to medium-high, and bring the liquid to a boil. Cook until all the wine has evaporated (the bubbling sound will become a sizzle), about 3 minutes. Add the mint and parsley and keep cooking the artichokes in the oil (it’s OK if a few of them tip over), until the cut sides of the artichokes are deep golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Lower the heat if necessary to prevent the artichokes from getting too dark.
Arrange the artichokes prettily on a plate and scoop the capers, oil and slightly crispy herbs over the top. Serve straightaway or at room temperature.
Source: A Girl and Her Greens by April Bloomfield [Ecco, 2015]